A few weeks after our first bikepacking trip to Andermatt we went for three days to Passo dello Stelvio. I just thought it would be great to bike there from home and Tom managed to draw a tour with three stages. It would be challenging, but possible.
Getting prepared
In my last blog I already described the bags and the packing list. We didn’t change that much this time but there are just a few things things to mention:
We took the risk to go without outer tires again since most gravel sections were planned on the first day.
The amount of clothes was again two sets. We assumed it would be possible to do a quick wash and otherwise we would just smell ourselves for one day.
Tom was having a knee injury before we left and he decided to bring a knee brace.
I decided to bring a few strokes of medical tape and a travel bottle of massage oil to treat his leg and knee.
One thing we checked better this time were dinner and breakfast possibilities at our sleeping places. Due to Corona it would be less easier to go out for food and although I usually really much like to explore that part, this time I thought it would be better to have it all arranged at one place.
Second Trip: Three days to the Stelvio pass: 375 km 8.363 hm in total
1. Sargans - Wolfgangpass - Flüelapass - Ofenpass - Müstair
2. Müstair - Passo dello Stelvio - Passo del Foscagno - Passo d'Eira - Livigno
3. Livigno - Forcola di Livigno - Berninapass - Albulapass - Lenzerheidepass - Sargans
As you can see, also this trip we did not very much limit our distance or height meters per day. The first day we planned to go as close as we could to the Italian border. Then we would have a good warming up on the second day before climbing the Stelvio early in morning. The first day route started in the same direction as the other trip we did but soon we took the exit towards Davos. The valley of Prättigau is beautiful but there is mainly one road going up. Also in this valley it’s possible to take the national cycling route as a quiet alternative if you go by bike. Of course we did that and although I knew it was worth it, again it was pretty heavy for me. A few times, the gravel road was too steep for me while cycling on a road bike equipped with a bag. A little grumpy, I got off my bike and walked these parts up. Fortunately it got better very quickly and in the last part to Davos we climbed to the Wolfgangpass and we had some beautiful sections on the paved road.
For lunch, I usually would love to sit down on the terrace and enjoy some food and a coffee. It just gives that extra bit of a holiday feeling. With Covid-19, it was not easy to find a place where we could find affordable food, drinks, a seat and a toilet. The train station in Davos turned out to be a place that met our requirements. Not the best atmosphere but there is always enough going on and plenty to see :). We actually chose that train-station-strategy a few times more this summer. After lunch we had two more climbs ahead and the first climb was the Flüelapass. It is about 13 km with a good warm-up and the steepest part in the last 6 km. We had fresh energy and very much enjoyed this popular climb up to a height of 2383 meter.
It was unbelievable warm these days and with two mountain passes behind us and the "Oven"pass ahead, Tom needed to keep his head literally cool. In Susch he found a fountain where he could do that. We took a short break and then took the easy gravel road to Zernez.
The Ofenpass is about 21 km in distance from Zernez and is actually divided into two smaller climbs with a small descent in between. It was late on the day and it was beautifully quiet. Like Tom and I usually do when we climb a mountain, we both go up at our own pace and we share our experiences later. This time we both saw a beautiful bearded vulture (bird of prey) hovering over the valley. These things make me quiet and make me forget the suffering for a moment.
But at the top of this climb we were pretty much done with the cycling for that day. The good thing was, we only had to go down to Müstair. There we stayed at a quite nice guest house with good food at night and a breakfast with sufficient choice. For the bikes there was a ‘Veloraum’ to safely store them and to clean them a bit if necessary. Our room was again basic but spacious and clean, so then we did not complain at all.
Next day was the big day for me: my first Stelvio ride! Breakfast took a bit longer then expected but with a perfectly boiled egg and more than enough energy we followed the road to Italy. Tom his knee injury was not really doing better after the first day. He decided to wear the knee brace and was just hoping he would make it today. Still he proposed to take the national cycling road for a few kilometres but I just wanted the fastest way to Prato allo Stelvio and start the challenge.
Wow, what a climb! It was long, heavy and busy but still it’s an adventure and I enjoyed every single meter. The last part of the climb, with the hairpin turns and the highest point in sight, feels almost heroic and just kept me going.
Woohoo, yeah! We made it! Not only for me but also for Tom is was not self-evident that he would get to the pass without trouble. It was not without pain but at the end we all feel a bit of pain climbing up these kinds of mountains.
At the pass itself it was way too crowded, especially in Covid-19 era, to stay there for much longer. So we decided to go further and search for a lunch stop somewhere in the direction of Bormio. That descent was again very pleasant, quiet and beautiful. The landscape and view is completely different from the other side and we stopped a few times to enjoy it.
Our lunch-stop preparation was again not very well and at this side of the mountain there was hardly anything to find. We just continued till we found something and just before the start of the next climb, there was a small Italian bar with sandwiches and chilled drinks. Just on time because I was already in grumpy mood of course ;).
We enjoyed the moment of rest and the food but we didn’t have much time to stay and chill. Two more climbs to go for that day. After the great experience of the morning it felt a bit like we just had to finish this part to get to our hotel in Livigno. But the next climb to Passo del Foscagno was still 15 km. It was not too steep so a perfect climb to get back in the rhythm. At the pass we entered the municipality of Livigno. Since 1960 this has been a tax-free area. In winter the area was difficult to reach, which has led to poverty. This appears to have been an important reason for the tax agreements. The border is therefore guarded. I thought I could take a nice photo from the building of the checkpoint, but I was immediately called back. So we better continued our ride to the short climb of Passo d’Eira and the endpoint of the second day: Livigno.
The hotel we booked was a sport hotel. Good facilities for the bikes and the food should be good too. Livigno is a popular base for training camps and top athletes. And therefore it was crowded with groups, also in our restaurant. It kind of felt like a food machine, more than an attractive restaurant. We got antipasti, a creamy pasta dish, main dish and dessert served way too fast. We just ate most of it because we knew we needed the energy and then we went to our room for some rest. Somehow we couldn’t sleep well and in the morning Tom was feeling nauseous, most likely from the pasta dish. He tried to go for breakfast but turned around and went back to the room within 10 minutes. Too many people, too much food, too warm, just too much of everything. I just had breakfast on my own and took a doggy bag back to the room with some food for Tom. He just ate the food and as soon as we could we were getting prepared for the last day of our trip! Today we tried a new treatment for Tom his knee. Tom actually could not believe that the medical tape would help but today was the day that he wanted to try it. Sometimes it takes a while before he is open for new things but I guess the pain was strong enough the last days and it felt like he had nothing to lose.
As soon as we were on the bikes the fresh air immediately did us well and we both could enjoy again. The last day of our trip was the most easy day in height meters but the longest in distance.
From the village, the 14 km easy climb to Forcola di Livigno starts immediately. While I was still starting up my diesel engine, I saw Tom cycling away like a rocket. I sometimes just can not believe how soon he feels good again being back on the bike. And as far as I could see, he seemed to be stronger than the days before. I just took it very easy this morning, enjoyed the beautiful valley and I saw all training teams passing me by during the climb to Forcola di Livigno. At the pass I didn’t see Tom anywhere so I assumed he found his rhythm and immediately continued to Passo del Bernina. It was just 3,5 km further but from there it was getting quite steep. While the Bernina massif appeared, I also enjoyed cycling between the training teams. During this climb the groups fell apart and it was easy to see which riders were in good shape and which could use some extra training. I saw it up close and imagined myself in the middle of a cycling race. A nice distraction that made me feel like I was on top of the Berninapass in no time. Up there I could not find Tom again and I got a bit worried if he was feeling well. But after searching him for 10 minutes and calling him he was just enjoying the glacier view while waiting for me.
The view was great and we enjoyed it for a while together before going down to the valley of Oberengadin. On our left we saw the Morteratschgletscher appearing and disappearing again. It was very impressive and I was already dreaming of a hiking trip through this area.
Down in the valley we chose to ride a part of the national cycling road again and this time it was a very nice and friendly gravel section. It took us to the village of La Punt where we could refill the bottles at a fountain before climbing the Abulapass.
Earlier this summer we climbed that one already from the other side with two friends of Tom. So I knew what I had to do: just 6 km of steep climbing followed by 3 km false flat with headwind. The steep climbs usually work better for me. I just have to go and then I go! The false flat sections just give me the feeling I’m tired and I enjoy it way less than steeper sections. But again, we made it and we also knew what a beautiful descent was waiting for us on the other side. In the beginning the view is wide and it feels like real high alpine terrain. Further down the terrain alternates with high cliffs, imposing bridges, the famous Swiss railway and the river. We did not take many pictures, but for those who want to have a good look at this part of the valley, I added a link to a fragment of the Dutch television series ‘Rail Away’ that is about the Abula valley. Slightly old fashioned but still so beautiful.
In the small mountain village of Bergün we had our lunch stop at bakery Preisig. With sandwiches, snacks and a fountain in front of the bakery, it was a good last lunch stop. One more section left before we finished our three-day bike packing trip!
We continued the descent and took the exit in the direction of Lenzerheide. It was not the most spectacular climb but it was just part of the round trip to get back home. It was about 15 km climbing with a few, short steeper sections. The slope varied quite a lot, and than it’s not so easy for me to get into a rhythm. Tom usually also enjoys these climbs way less but the medical taping really seemed to work and because he was feeling so good compared to the first days, he could enjoy every single meter. The descent from Lenzerheide goes over quite a busy road to Chur. I would say, not so attractive to climb from that side but probably I will try once. Entering our home valley and the view over Chur was a great feeling. We were going to make it! In Chur we just had a quick stop for a drink at some kind of Arabic kiosk before we took the easy road back home. No swimming this time but just a good shower and food and beer at the balcony.
Still it feels a bit unbelievable that we could cycle to the Stelvio from home in three days. And although it was quite a heavy trip, I would do it again for sure! Did we learn from our first trip and would we do things differently next times? A few strokes of medical taping will be on the packing list next time and we might better sleep and eat again at smaller, cosy guest houses with less food possibilities. Probably one day, we will have more possibilities to stay and eat anyway if Covid-19 is overcome. We didn’t think of camping yet since we really enjoyed these long cycling trips. But if we go for something like a week trip or if we go off road with the mountainbikes next year, I would definitely think about that.
That was about it for the biking trips of 2020, we'll be back in 2021!
Comments