Every year I plan at least 1 multi-day trip in which I isolate myself from the outside world. Preferably high in the mountains, without telephone and media where I can find my inner peace again. This summer Tom joined me on an adventure to Tessin. In 5 days we hiked the first 6 stages of the Via Alta Vallemaggia. A quite technical high Alpine hike in Tessin.
From our starting point near Locarno to the finish in Fusio we hiked over 50 km of technical hiking trail. It was a great challenge in which we also reached our limits several times. But we made it together as a team and we have an other experience to remember.
If you are curious about this adventure, continue reading for the day-to-day report or watch the video with visual impressions via this link.
The First Day: Cimetta - Alp Masnee
The first stage was 13 km with 1.400 vertical meters, usualy peanuts for us. But the trail is technical and we carry quite some weight in our bags. We have to bring lunch for 5 days, we cook ourselves for 3 days and there will not be many possibilities to buy any food on the way. Good thing is, the backpack will be lighter every day.
It took us over 9 hours to reach the Refugge Alp Masnee. The weather was not as clear as expected but actually we were very fine with some clouds as protection against the heat. Most part of the hike was over the ridge which means the we had great views over different valleys. At some points we could even see Lagio Maggiore in the distance.
The last part was the most technical. A bit of rockclimbing (without special climbing equipment) with quite exposed trails. We both have to get used on the weight of our bags since that has great impact on our balance. At 11.5 km the most technical part was over and we could enjoy a more easy hike to the Rifuggio. The sky fully cleared up and we saw this little stone village appearing in the distance.
It's a great place and even greater is, we were the only ones staying here for the night. The whole village, with a kitchen house, a living house, a few houses to sleep and a bathroom was ours. In the bathroom we found some drinks for sale, so we took a nice local beer, toasted on the long but great first day and then started to prepare our meal for today.
After dinner it was getting cold very fast. We shortly enjoyed the great sky full of stars and then we picked one of the beds to take our rest and recover for tomorrow.
Second Day: Alp Masnee - Alpe Spluga
Today was a very tough day! My knee was strained from the first day and hurting terribly. The tour was almost as long as the first day and I was concerned if I could continue and finish the day. Happy that Tom brought his hiking poles and that I could use one of them. But also happy that I brought tape and painkillers. If I use painkillers, there really is something wrong. But with all measures I could continue and I was just hoping that it would get better, at least not worse.
The weather was about the same but it is actually very special to hike in this mystic foggy landscape. And every now and then, we also had some sunny time.
We were surprised that there was not that much wildlife (we expected way more Capricorns) but as a full surprise we saw two snakes!! Wow scary, I never saw a snake before and totally didn't know if they were dangerous. But it seemed that they were afraid for us, so no worries about a snake attack. It seemed to be a Kreuzotter, one of the two types of wild snakes in Switzerland.
After 8,5 hours we made it to the hut! And I was so happy to be there and to give my knee some rest. Today we had to cook again, something Tom usually really is not looking forward to. But the funny thing is, if there is not much to do, and you really need food, you just work together to fix it. A simple dish with rice and tomato sauce was a great reward for this day.
Third Day: Alpe Spluga - Capanna Tomeo
I was unsure if we could continue the tour but wanted to try. The rest did well and we realized that Tom also brought a knee brace that I could use. At least, we used all measures we could.
The day started with a friendly climb so we could warm up. From the pass, the trail went down extremely steep in one go and we also entered technical terrain again. We lost a lot of time because I had to walk extra carefully. But still, we were moving forward and the environment was desolate and wonderful. We didn't see anyone all day and the silence was only broken by a blaring goat or a clattering waterfall.
After more than 5 hours of hiking we came across a sign and we saw that we were not even halfway. That was not good for morale. But we had to keep going and luckily the knee was still working.
For the last climb I decided to use my emergency bar, a Snickers. And it worked! I flew up that hill and it seemed like my knee was working like usual again. That was really enjoyable! The pain and suffering of the past few days made me appreciate it even more.
We saw more and more signals of the next hut. Tomeo was the name and of course, that was extra motivating for Tom. The last descent seemed relaxing but kept surprising until the end. But when lake Tomeo appeared, hut Tomeo quickly followed. Another beautiful place where we were well spoiled by Francesca and her husband.
Fourth Day: Capanna Tomeo - Alpe Fontana
Because the weather was going to be uncertain at the end of day 4 and day 5 and because I didn't trust my knee yet, we decided to adjust the tour a bit. We actually planned to follow part of the route and then take an exit that would end up at a new hut (under construction).
The day started with lots of goats snuggling together on the first pass. I felt good and my knee seemed to recover miraculously. That gave me confidence!
Due to a mistake in our route planning and a bit of unclearness in the route map, we unfortunately took a wrong exit. We lost time and we didn't have that margin because of the uncertain weather. We had to adjust the route again and we needed to take a lower trail instead of the trail via the highest point of the week. That was a bit of a switch, especially for Tom who has quite a bit of urge to go to the top. But safety was the most important and therefore we chose the safe path.
The way down was beautiful but long and tiring for the knees. We kept the option open to sleep in the valley and end the tour earlier then we wanted. An hour before the valley, we came to an intersection that said that we could continue down or walk up to the hut we had planned to go. The way up was longer but we prefered to climb instead of descending and the adventure of this primitive hut instead of a hotel in the valley.
It turned out to be the best choice. The climb up along a river with waterfalls was super impressive. We walked through the rain for the last fifteen minutes but we didn't mind at all. The hut was great! It was just the two of us again, and now we already knew how it works and what needs to be done in the hut. We quickly changed out wet clothes, Tom turned on the oven and I took care of the food and prepared the beds. Then the most important things were done and we could enjoy the beautiful place and an exciting thunderstorm.
A day with ups and downs but a great ending!
Fifth Day: Alpe Fontana - Fusio
What a gift! When we arrived at Rifugio Fontana it was raining cats and dogs. During the night there was a thunderstorm and when we woke up it didn't look much better. We were in no rush at all, because a hike of just 5 to 6 hours was planned for the last day.
Right after breakfast the sky fully cleared up and the rest of the day we could enjoy beautiful sunny weather. We waited a bit for the soil and stones to dry and then we took our bags for the last day. We quickly went up steep hill to the last pass. The way down was even steeper but the terrain was not too technical so we were able to make a good pace.
In the descent, the dam of Lago di Sambucca loomed up. From there, we had to go a little further to our lake of the day, lago di Magnola. There was still hardly any sign of civilisation or other people around, but it was a beautiful spot for our last lunch from the backpack.
After lunch we started the last 1.5 hours to Fusio, a small picturesque mountain village. In Fusio we booked a room in an old villa and a lovely hot tub was waiting for us. It wad a great place to finish where we could toast to the beautiful adventure and our 4th anniversary.
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